BLACKBURN AND SWEETZER

Designer Christopher Enuke; click to expand

— Text and photos by Christina von Messling

It’s always refreshing to find out that there’s more to a collection than meets the eye, which might be a given for prêt-a-porter or haute couture, but not necessarily in the more reasonably-priced spheres of the fashion market. However, there was plenty of research and inspiration behind Naked Blue, the new label designed by Christopher Enuke, whose premium denim brand Oligo Tissew was a consistent bright spot from season to season at LA Fashion Week. Launched this past August, Naked Blue is one of five brands from CMT (Clothing for Modern Times) Group, a Canadian fast-fashion retailer. CMT’s LA design studio, an impressive 30,000-square-foot space in Boyle Heights, was founded in early 2008, and Naked Blue is covering the relaxed but underground-influenced casualwear segment for men.

More on the collection and lotsa photos!

“Of course, my first association for Naked Blue was water,” Enuke says, “but the ‘naked’ part had to be incorporated as well. That led me to think about different peoples who still today are very connected to their environment and so I eventually found the Maori in New Zealand. I immersed myself into their culture, studied their paintings, body art, and religion.”

All the designs of the collection are based on Maori tattoo art, and Enuke has used parts of their religious writings as well: excerpts are printed on tank tops, but also on the inside of jeans or khakis, to put the “Maori-stamp” on the more classic pieces of the line as well. Even the button design is derived from the image of a feather, a very important symbol for the Maori.

The designer was also able to incorporate the excellent construction and fit that Oligo Tissew was known for into the new label: rounded sleeves for the jackets (“Our arms are usually a bit rounded and not straight like sticks”), little zippers on the back of the khakis to give the option of a tighter fit, as well as a skinny jean for men. “There is definitely a demand for them, and usually guys have to go to the women’s section to find one. Not anymore!”